how we work
The Method
Every Ambernay product follows the same seven-stage process — from the first written brief to the moment it reaches your hands. No shortcuts. No exceptions.
The Brief
Before anything else, a written constraint
Every product begins with a document that defines what it must accomplish — the cosmetic objective, the skin types it should address, the sensory profile, and the ingredients that are either required or excluded. The brief is written before any ingredient is selected. It exists to prevent the formula from being built around what is trending, rather than what works.
Ingredient Evaluation
Five criteria. No exceptions.
Each ingredient is assessed before inclusion:
- Biological function — what it does in skin physiology, at the site of action
- Evidence quality — the standard and design of studies that support the function
- Concentration range — the range at which it performs its stated function in a finished formula
- Tolerance profile — how it behaves across skin types, including reactive skin
- Formula compatibility — interaction with other actives, pH, stability
Trend presence is not a criterion. An ingredient is not included because it appears prominently in skincare marketing.
Formulation & Development
Made with experienced hands
Formulas are developed in collaboration with experienced cosmetic laboratories. The process involves multiple iterations against the brief: adjustments to texture, active concentration, and stability until the formula meets its defined objective. We do not rush the development cycle to meet a launch date.
Safety Assessment
Independent review, every time
Every Ambernay product undergoes a full cosmetic safety assessment conducted by a qualified independent safety assessor, as required under EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC 1223/2009) Article 10. The assessment covers ingredient toxicology, microbiological safety (ISO 11930), stability under accelerated conditions, packaging compatibility, and compliance with all relevant regulatory annexes.
Finished-Formula Testing
Claims substantiated on the actual product
Efficacy claims are supported by testing the finished formula — not by citing ingredient studies in isolation. Testing is conducted by independent third-party partners and may include dermatologist-supervised tolerance studies, consumer panel assessment, biophysical measurement (corneometry, tewametry, cutometry), and SPF testing to ISO 24444 / ISO 24443 where applicable.
Product Information File
Complete documentation, maintained throughout
A complete Product Information File (PIF) is maintained for every product in our range, as required by EU Cosmetics Regulation. The PIF contains the safety assessment, product description, manufacturing information, claims substantiation, stability data, and microbiological testing results.
Market Entry
Notified, compliant, and clearly labelled
Products are notified through the EU Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP) before market entry. The EU Responsible Person is identified on the product label and in the PIF. Products are not released until every step in this process is complete.
This is the process behind every product we make. Not every brand documents it this openly. We think you deserve to know.